Table of Contents

Oltrepò Pavese

Oltrepò Pavese is a place that surprises you. A land still little told, yet with all it takes to become one of Italy’s following must-visit wine destinations.

You come here to slow down, to breathe deeply, to listen to the silence descending through the valleys and rising from the vineyards at sunset. You come here to live genuinely.

Where are we?

We’re in Lombardy, yet just a whisper away from Piedmont, with Liguria peeking from behind the hills and Emilia-Romagna reaching out a hand just beyond.

Oltrepò Pavese is a sinuous strip of land that stretches south of the River Po: hills that chase one another, overlapping and softening, transforming into vineyards, forests, and ancient villages.

Hills dominate the landscape – a territory sculpted by viticulture and agriculture, vibrant and ever-changing. Altitudes range from 200 to 700 meters above sea level, with diverse exposures, slopes, and microclimates. It’s precisely this variety that makes Oltrepò a microcosm of wine.

Starting Point: Voghera, the Center of the World

An ideal destination (or perhaps the beginning), Voghera is a town that holds an ancient and fascinating legend.

They say that when the Creator traced the boundaries of the Earth, He placed the tip of His compass right here: in Piazza del Duomo.

A slab known as the Pietra del Compasso commemorates this moment – a stone with a small hole in its center, marking this symbolic spot.

Voghera also sits on the 45th parallel north, exactly halfway between the North Pole and the Equator. Coincidence? Perhaps. However, every detail here seems to tell a story.

Experiences to Live

E-Bike Adventures

The first thing to do? Hop on an e-bike and go.
There are many options, but if you’re looking for a solid and well-organized operation, Ebike Travel in Montalto Pavese is an excellent choice.

They rent electric bikes for all skill levels and offer expert guides to accompany you along the ridges, among gentle climbs and scenic descents.

As you bike, you cross hills, vineyards, and forests, immersing yourself fully in nature’s rhythm.
The air smells of wild blackberry and acacia. The landscape shifts with every turn. Time expands.

A must-see stop? A Big Bench, one of those oversized, brightly colored benches, inviting you to sit and gaze.

In front of you: the Po Valley, neat vineyards, the breath of the hills. Pause. Take a photo, of course. But first, close your eyes.

A visit to Varzi and its cellars

Varzi is one of those places that seem to balance gracefully between past and present, a medieval village steeped in ancient stone, cool alleys, and shops in no hurry. Here, time flows differently.

And there’s a scent, unmistakable: that of Salame di Varzi DOP, still crafted today with artisan mastery in curing cellars dug beneath the houses, where humidity is just proper, the darkness constant, and silence guards the aging process.

These cellars are not just technical spaces – they are rituals. The salami, stuffed into natural casings, rests on wooden boards or hangs from iron hooks, breathing slowly and fermenting in harmony with the valley’s air.

La Genisia and Varzi Vino&Beyond - The magazine for those who love the world of wine, food, and travel

Each producer has their secret. Each salumiere tells a story that starts with free-range pigs, continues with the selection of the finest cuts, and ends in a round, velvety slice that melts on the palate.

A visit to Varzi isn’t complete without stepping into one of these historic cellars, speaking with those who’ve been working here for generations, and tasting – perhaps with a glass of Bonarda, as tradition demands.

The Malaspina Castle

There’s a stone in Varzi that remembers more than people do. It belongs to the Malaspina Castle, perched above the village, discreet yet ever-present.
It was built, brick by brick, between the 12th and 13th centuries.

Owned by the powerful Malaspina family of the Spino Fiorito, this castle was for centuries a symbol of power and protection. It was here that the fate of mountain passes, trade routes, and those who crossed them was decided. Its towers watched over the Salt Road, the ancient route linking Genoa to the Po Valley that brought wealth to the village.

Strolling today through its courtyards and restored rooms, you can still feel the echoes of armor, midnight councils, and letters penned by candlelight.

Since 2022, the castle has been open to visitors again, thanks to a significant restoration project. Today, it hosts cultural events, exhibitions, and tastings, becoming a new hub for experiential tourism in Upper Oltrepò.

Cà del Monte Astronomical Observatory

There aren’t many places in Italy where you can go from vineyard to stars in a matter of minutes. But here, you can.

In Cecima, atop a quiet hill, the Ca’ del Monte Planetarium and Astronomical Observatory offers a truly unique experience.
You reach it by driving through gentle bends and tidy vineyards, and suddenly the view opens up: greenery below, sky above.

As the sun sets and the air grows lighter, the show begins.
Inside, the planetarium guides you through constellations, myths, and distant galaxies. Then outside, under the slowly opening dome, the telescope comes to life: and stars are no longer just points of light – they’re living bodies, planets with rings, moons casting shadows.

But if your visit is by day, don’t worry, you can observe the sun, that blazing, fiery giant that lights and warms us.
Yes, the observatory doesn’t only speak of stars and constellations – it also celebrates the sun… after all, it’s the closest star to Earth.

La-Genisia-5---Vino&Beyond--The-magazine-for-those-who-love-the-world-of-wine,-food,-and-travel

Wine: the Heart of Oltrepò Pavese

And then, of course, there is wine.
The deep agricultural soul of Oltrepò Pavese lies in the vines, in the rows, in the calloused hands of its growers.

The grape variety that most defines this territory is Pinot Noir, introduced here in the second half of the 19th century and now the undisputed king of these lands.

Today, Oltrepò is one of the largest areas in Italy devoted to Pinot Noir and one of the most promising in Europe.

The conditions? Perfect:

Hillside altitudes that provide freshness and acidity
Day/night temperature swings are essential for aromatic development
Diverse soils: calcareous marl, clay, sand, gravel
Unique microclimates, thanks to the nearby Po and the protection of the Apennines

Here, you’ll find elegant Traditional Method sparkling wines, as well as intriguing reds, taut rosés, and delicate whites.

Visiting Oltrepò means listening to the stories of the people, discovering family-run wineries and historic cooperatives, and uncovering small producers who are reshaping the region’s landscape.

And every glass becomes a key to reading the landscape.

Oltrepò Pavese is not just a place to see.
It’s a place to experience, to breathe, to wander slowly.
It’s made of stories, silences, scents, and discoveries.
It will surprise you – not with noise, but with its coherence, its authenticity, its humanity.

Come. Not by chance. But by choice.

If you’re planning a trip to the Oltrepò Pavese, be sure to check out the website www.oltrepopavese.com