Oltrepò Pavese

Oltrepò Pavese is one of those places that stays with you long after you’ve left. Maybe it’s the hills, rolling like green waves. Perhaps it’s the neat rows of vines climbing the slopes like handwritten music across a natural score. But if there’s one reason you should get to know this land, taste it, and fall in love with it, it’s the wine. Or rather, the wines.

Because Oltrepò is never just one thing. It’s complexity. It’s layers. This is a land that speaks through nuances, vintages, and grape varieties. And classifications.

This guide doesn’t aim to be encyclopedic. It’s an invitation to take a closer look when you see Oltrepò Pavese DOC on a label. To ask questions. To plan a trip (click here and you can find some helpful tips). Because behind those words lie centuries of history, miles of vineyards, and people who get their hands dirty every day to make sure every bottle tells a story of here.

Where Oltrepò Pavese is and why it matters

We’re in the southernmost tip of Lombardy, that wedge of land nestled between Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna, and Liguria. A patchwork of hills and valleys, with elevations ranging from 200 to 700 meters above sea level, a unique microclimate shaped by the Apennines and the nearby Po River, and a mosaic of soils including limestone marl, clay, sand, and gravel.

Over 13,000 hectares here are registered under the Denominazione di Origine Controllata Oltrepò Pavese—one of Italy’s most historic and significant appellations.

Fun fact: the Oltrepò region is shaped like a bunch of grapes.

The grapes of Oltrepò Pavese

The flagship variety? Pinot Noir. It’s the silent protagonist of this land, introduced in the second half of the 19th century when winemakers recognized that this demanding grape had found its perfect home here.

But Pinot Noir is just the beginning. Oltrepò is also home to:

• Croatina, often blended with Barbera and Uva Rara to produce the lively Bonarda dell’Oltrepò Pavese DOC
• Barbera, always present and a solid backbone in many local cuvées
• Riesling Italico, increasingly invested in crafting fresh, mineral-driven, long-lived whites
• Moscato Bianco, for aromatic and sweet wines
• Cortese, Malvasia Aromatica di Candia, and Chardonnay, completing a diverse viticultural panorama

Oltrepò Pavese and its story

Pinot Noir has found one of its most essential homes in Italy, right here in the Oltrepò. Its story begins in the 1800s, when curious, forward-thinking winemakers likely brought it over from nearby Burgundy. In the hills of Pavia, Pinot Noir found an ideal environment: moderate altitude, pronounced diurnal temperature shifts, and complex soils that enhance its elegance and finesse.

Over time, Pinot Noir became deeply embedded in the local winemaking culture, evolving from an experiment into an emblem. Not only did it pave the way for outstanding red and white wines, but it also played a central role in the region’s Metodo Classico, now one of Italy’s premier sparkling wine categories.

Its ability to express intense red fruit, spicy notes, and refined structure in these lands has created a true vinous ecosystem, where quality and tradition converge. Today, Oltrepò Pavese is a global reference point for this noble grape.

According to regional statistics, in 2023, Oltrepò Pavese had around 12,500 hectares under vine, with a production of roughly 25 million bottles. Pinot Noir remains the leading variety, with approximately 3,000 hectares planted, making this the largest Pinot Noir-growing area in Italy and one of the most significant worldwide. Oltrepò Paveso is therefore the largest vineyard area in Lombardy and the third largest in Italy.

The Appellations: not just one identity, but many

Oltrepò boasts several designations of origin, each with its character.

Oltrepò Pavese Doc

The “umbrella” appellation covers most of the still and sparkling wines, both red and white. Wines here can be bottle-fermented, naturally fizzy, dry, or semi-sweet. Each producer brings a unique interpretation.

Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Doc

The crown jewel. This is where Pinot Noir shines in its most elegant, precise, mineral expression. Granted DOCG status in 2007, it remains one of the very few Italian DOCGs reserved exclusively for Metodo Classico sparkling wines. Strict regulations, increasing quality, and a rising international reputation define it.

Styles include:

• Brut, Brut Nature, Rosé
• Millesimato (single-vintage)
• Riserva (minimum 36 months on the lees)

Bonarda dell’Oltrepò Pavese Doc

Not to be confused with the Bonarda of Piedmont, this wine is based on Croatina, often made slightly sparkling, with a deep color and notes of red fruit, black pepper, and dried flowers. It’s a wine of rural tradition—ideal with cured meats or ragù pasta—a wine for Sundays, for long tables, for sharing.

Sangue di Giuda dell’Oltrepò Pavese Doc

A sweet, red, sparkling wine like no other. A blend of Croatina, Barbera, Uva Rara, Vespolina, and Pinot Noir, it’s vinified to retain residual sugar. With its curious name—legend says Judas found redemption here—it’s a playful, friendly wine for dessert or informal evenings.

What is “Classese”?

In February 2025, the Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese approved a groundbreaking update to the Metodo Classico DOCG specification, officially adopting the traditional name Classese. This move isn’t just a nod to heritage—it’s a bold statement of intent to strengthen the region’s territorial identity and elevate its ancient winemaking roots.

The updated disciplinare also introduces MGA (Additional Geographic Mentions), allowing producers to highlight individual crus and their unique traits. For consumers, it offers a more precise reading of what’s inside each bottle.

Classese now stands as a symbol of excellence and authenticity, aiming to position Oltrepò Pavese among the very best Metodo Classico territories in Italy.

Reading the Land: Zoning as a Key to Understanding

You can’t discuss Oltrepò Pavese DOC without mentioning terroir. Some wineries—like La Genisia, featured in another article—are actively working on scientific zoning projects, mapping soil types and microclimates to understand how each parcel expresses its distinct personality.

It’s a path reminiscent of Champagne, the Mosel, or Burgundy. It takes time, patience, and a methodical approach. But it will bear fruit. Because identity is born from detail.

Wineries to Visit: A Selection for Wine Travelers

• La Genisia – Innovation meets terroir, with a strong focus on Pinot Noir and Metodo Classico. A cutting-edge winery offering an augmented reality experience.
• Conte Vistarino – A hostoric estate, knowm for elegant, age-worthy wines and a deep territorial identity.
• Monsupello: a small, family-run winery producing wines with a truly authentic expression of the land.
• Alessio Brandolini: Young, dynamic, and rooted in quality red wines and territorial valorization.
• Calatroni: tradition and passion, from Pinot Noir to still wines and Metodo Classico